Sligo Attractions

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Benbulben Mountain

Under bare Ben Bulben’s head… Yeats is laid”: explore this magical mountain which inspired so much of the work of WB Yeats buried nearby. See the views and hear the myths. Capture the unique spirit of the North-West of Ireland and of ‘Yeats Country’ by visiting famous Benbulben in Co. Sligo.

One of Ireland’s most distinctive mountains, Benbulben will be forever associated with the Nobel Literature prizewinner and celebrated poet, WB Yeats (1865 – 1939). As you travel north along the scenic route from Sligo Town to Benbulben, soak up the wonderful atmosphere which inspired much of Yeats’ poetry.

Drop by Drumcliff churchyard in the shadows of the great mountain to see his grave and gain a greater understanding of the impact that Benbulben had on him.

The epitaph on his gravestone is known the world over:

“Cast a cold eye
On life, on death.
Horseman, pass by!”

What you may not realise, as you read these famous lines, is that they are taken from one of his poems, entitled ‘Under Ben Bulben’. Another excerpt from that same poem runs like this:

“Under bare Ben Bulben’s head
In Drumcliff churchyard Yeats is laid.
An ancestor was rector there”

You will have a great opportunity, during your visit, to find out the meaning behind Yeats’s prophetic words. The poet had very close links with the area. His grandfather was indeed Rector of Drumcliff Church and the young poet spent much of his childhood in Sligo. No wonder he was greatly inspired by the mountain range and by other sites in Co. Sligo such as the Isle of Innisfree, Lough Gill, Slish Wood, Dooney Rock & Lissadell House.

When you get to Benbulben and reach its magical 526m summit, you will truly understand why the great poet should wish to be buried in its vicinity. Athough originally buried in France after his death in 1939, his wishes were granted in 1948 when his remains were brought back to rest at Drumcliff.

And now to the mountain itself! What an impressive sight it is, with unusual table-top profile, sheer cliffs, seamed and fluted sides. Look out for its special flora of artic ferns and flowers that are internationally renowned. Little wonder that the massive limestone bulk of Benbulben was the focal point for primitive workshop.

Benbulben is steeped in Irish history and mythology. You will be fascinated by its colourful past. It is said to have got its name from Gulban, the son of Niall of the Nine Hostages, an important Gaelic king of the 4th century AD, with Benbulben meaning ‘The peak of Gulban’. Don’t forget to ask, too, about the myths associated with the mountain and surrounding peaks. Many of these are associated with two legendary Irish figures, Fionn McCumhail and Diarmait Ó Duibnet. One fascinating story, with many twists and turns, is about ‘The Boar of Benbulben’.

Gleniff Horse Shoe

Magic in Ben Bulben’s shadow – from The Irish Times – Wednesday, May 4, 2011

GREAT DRIVES GLENIFF HORSESHOE: Yeats’ county continues to surprise with a route dotted with history as well as the site of one of the great tales of Irish mythology, writes Bob Montgomery

Sligo has many magical places, and I thought I had been to all of them. But on my latest exploration I discovered one that is very special indeed. The extraordinary thing about writing this series is how new drives continue to be discovered long after I had expected all the “interesting” roads to be exhausted. All of which serves to confirm what a unique island we live on and how incredibly varied it is.

Gleniff Horseshoe is actually not a horseshoe at all but in reality a 9½km loop. That may seem short but an hour or two spent along this route soaking up the grandeur of the place will, I promise, be memorable. Gleniff Horseshoe is easily accessed from the main N15 Sligo to Bundoran road. Travelling from Sligo, pass through the small village of Cliffony (about 22km from Sligo) before taking the next right turn. The start of the loop is about 8km from the N15. The loop can be traversed either clockwise or anti-clockwise but my own feeling is that a clockwise route unveils its splendor to greatest effect.

You’ll know you’ve arrived on the loop when you pass a derelict mill on your left before the landscape opens out to views dominated by Truskmore and Ben Bulben in the distance. Truskmore dominates the eastern side of the loop rising to 647metres and is topped by an RTÉ mast as well as a number of other smaller masts. At first the loop runs parallel to the slopes of Truskmore as it heads towards its most southerly point. The slopes are gentle but as the road turns to the west through an area of forest the heights of Ben Bulben’s eastern face rise up, almost blocking out all else. High on the rock face a large entrance to a cave is visible – said to be Ireland’s highest cave – and it is associated with one of our most enduring legends, the pursuit of Diarmuid and Gráinne.

The tale recounts how Diarmuid joined a boar hunt organised by Fionn, the leader of warrior band, the Fianna. During the hunt a boar mortally wounds him. Now Fionn has the power to heal Diarmuid’s wounds by giving him water from his hands but twice allows the water to slip through his fingers. By the time he changes his mind and returns with water, Diarmuid has died.

According to the tale, Diarmuid’s body was placed in the cave and was joined there by the body of Gráinne, she having died of grief.

The story seems at one with this other-worldly place, where it is easy to imagine a time when such tales were in the making.

Returning to the loop road, as one turns northeast the ruin of a large two-story building is passed, a solitary building in this magnificent setting.

I’m told it was a schoolhouse and if so it is an indicator of how this valley once supported a large population – a population which must have endured considerable hardships in winter.

Reluctantly, we leave the valley and returning to the N15 again, the cloak of magic it casts over us slowly fades away, but enough remains to keep the memory of a very special place in our minds.

W B Yeats

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Megalithic Monuments

Sligo has a wealth of Megalithic Monuments and early Christian sites to explore. The Megalithic sites of Carrowmore, Creevykeel and Carrowkeel are all within driving distance of Benbulben Farmhouse. Visit Megalithic Ireland for more information.